T's Travels

The Old Sled Works, Duncannon, PA

Picture it (which should be easy because it’s what we’ve been living): Days and days of gray and white—clouds and snow, snow and clouds, slush, ice, snow again. Never all that deep but definitely persistent. Cap it off with a nasty polar vortex of cold.  But just when you think it’s never going to end, it does. You are greeted by a glorious sunny Sunday. The mercury rises toward 50, snow melts all over the place, the sun is so bright it makes you squint. Gotta get out and do something!

What a great day to head to the Old Sled Works in Duncannon, PA! Based on the full parking lot, we certainly weren’t the only ones thinking that walking around an antique center perusing stuff from the 20th century (or older) was a good way to spend the day. While we’re seasoned flea market/antique place visitors (hello Renninger’s Extravaganza!), and the Old Sled Works is just across the river from Harrisburg, PA, we had never been there.

Over the years, we’ve read, been told, witnessed that eBay has had a significant impact on the local flea-market market. Too many times we’d go somewhere and it was just tables and tables of stuff that they couldn’t sell on eBay—the good items were out on the Internet. Well, you can’t have a day of walking and chatting and laughing and sharing memories with an eBay vendor. Which makes it so much more significant that the Old Sled Works is the real thing—not just a bunch of leftover junk but stands and stands (we did a lot of walking) full of household goods, furniture, tools, memorabilia. Since it’s February and Super Bowl Sunday we saw both Valentine’s decorations and football souvenirs.

That would have been enough for me. But then things got even better! There’s a soda fountain. It had been closed for a number of years and just reopened in December. Soup, sandwiches, local ice cream. Lots of authentic décor and some really cool gadgets on display. It was a long walk to get there but you’ll work up an appetite, too. The very old TVs on display were playing Three Stooges shorts so we even had entertainment while we ate.

And if that isn’t enough, would you believe small museums? If I coulda rolled in them, I woulda! Instead I just walked through them—the Old Sled Works (yes, it was once a factory), the transportation section, the antique games. I was thrilled to see pinball machines. The real kind, pre-fancy electronic controls. I hit my husband up for a quarter to play one. I didn’t do too well but then it takes a lot of quarters to get to know a machine. I didn’t care (much); it was bliss just to play. (There are also some other machines for playing, including a real Pong. Boop! Boop!)

In one very weird (to me) moment I was transported back to my college days when I came across the Alaskaland player piano. The note says it was taken out of the Colonial Park Alaskaland—I didn’t know there was more than one. My point of reference was always Altoona (ever have an Aleutian volcano? Bet you can’t finish it!).

We covered the entire place but it took a while. I even walked up the very old stairs to the second floor for a bit. I asked to see a bracelet in a case, Husb picked up a book, no big purchases but many things to consider for later. We came out into the bright sun and warmth (the car said it was indeed 50) and headed home. It won’t be long before we’re back there again. The Old Sled Works makes for a great day!

 

Allegheny Street Bed and Breakfast, Hollidaysburg, PA

Life can bring a lot of changes, both good and bad. Through it all we just keep on truckin’, looking for those moments that bring sun and light into our lives. (Philosophical start for a travel article, no? Well, I’ve been traveling a lot for business lately and the drive gives me time to think.)

On to something very pleasant. I had to go to Penn State Altoona for work and dear Husband joined me because he was invited to give an Earth Day talk to the students. As has happened a lot lately, it seems, the major chain hotels in town were full. I considered the Grand Hotel (so long ago it was a Sheraton, and then a Ramada—presently under renovations) but I also knew of the Iron Corbel Bed and Breakfast in nearby Hollidaysburg, and since I’m doing this book it was the right choice. I had never stayed at the Iron Corbel so, I thought, this would be my chance. As sometimes happens with these businesses, though, it has changed owners and name. I booked two nights at what is now the Allegheny Street Bed and Breakfast.

When I was a child and we visited my grandparents in Altoona, the name “Hollidaysburg” sounded like a fun place to me but it was never a destination, just somewhere to pass through on the way to the Meadows in Duncansville for frozen custard. For this article, of course I read up on the history. According to the National Register of Historic Places, “Hollidaysburg evolved from a tavern stop along the Huntingdon, Cambria, Indiana Turnpike. Completion of the Main Line of the PA Canal in 1832 and the Allegheny Portage Railroad two years later set off a burst of development that lasted through the early 20th century.” By 1892 the town was well enough developed to get this comment in a Blair County history: “Hollidaysburg is a pretty and healthful town, with well shaded streets, and would make a very desirable summer resort.” Over 100 years later it’s still very pretty and a nice place to walk around to look at old homes.

And that’s where the Allegheny Street Bed and Breakfast comes in. Innkeepers Richard and Jyoti (he’s from Pennsylvania, she’s from India) welcomed us into their home, a large yellow Second Empire–style house built in the mid-1850s and at one point owned by the prominent McLanahan family. We stayed in a front room on the second floor (see the Dorothy Day room on the website), spacious, quiet, and comfortable. (I peeked into the other rooms—also very large!) I can see why businesspeople often stay there—it would be a good place to get some work done or unwind. The large public rooms on the first floor would be perfect for family reunions or other group gatherings.

Reviewers have raved about the breakfasts and with good reason. We came downstairs to a beautifully set table and at each place a bowl of fresh fruit--blackberries, strawberries, blueberries on a nest of honeydew—quite welcome considering how spring just refuses to arrive. French-pressed coffee for me on the side. This was followed by bowls of heavenly steel-cut oatmeal. You might not think of oatmeal as ever being “heavenly” but this was made with milk and just a little brown sugar, cooked long and slow (we know this from talking to Jyoti), and it was truly the best I’ve ever had (in fact, I had it the next morning as well!). On the side was a small platter of meats and cheeses. Cold cereals and yogurts were also available. After our oatmeal, Richard was ready to make us eggs but we were already quite happily full.

My second morning I had a long talk with Jyoti about—among other things—the history of the house, Hong Kong (where they had lived for many years), and the beautiful little town of Hollidaysburg where they have now settled. As I was leaving, she packed a container of fresh fruit for my trip home (loved it!). Jyoti and Richard are the perfect sort of innkeepers; they give just the right amount of attention for a guest. And they make sure you never leave hungry!

Above: Photo of dining room after my breakfast

Phoenicia, Altoona, PA

I found the Mediterranean restaurant Phoenicia on a friend’s recommendation. I doubt I would know it any other way because it’s rare I travel south on Route 36 on Altoona’s Logan Boulevard toward Hollidaysburg. But there it is. And more people should know about it.

I was still on my road trip with Carolyn but we were headed home when we stopped on a Friday evening. I really liked the ambience. Although there were other customers the restaurant felt quiet and spacious.

We sat down and were promptly waited on. When the waiter told us the specials, he mentioned something I wasn’t familiar with—lambic. (I’ve since found out that I must live in some kind of cloud because this is not new to other people.) The waiter said it was a framboise (raspberry) lambic. Knowing how raspberry iced tea can be, I first asked if it was sweet. He assured me it wasn’t so I had to try it, of course. I also ordered the special: haddock over cous-cous.

Carolyn ordered the vegetarian combo platter (“A fabulous combination of our vegetarian dishes consisting of spanakopita, tyropita, grape leaves, falafel, hummus, babaganouj, and roasted vegetables”). What she really wanted was the stuffed grape leaves. Her plate was huge; she ended up taking most of it home.

Our dinners were very good. The lambic was a nice change from wine or beer. Normally at this point I’d be mentioning what dessert I had. The cakes in the case looked beautiful but we were headed for State College because Carolyn wanted ice cream from the Creamery (she doesn’t get to Pennsylvania much and so this was very necessary!). I do go to Altoona regularly, and I will definitely go back to Phoenicia to give those desserts a try.

 

Knickerbocker Tavern, Altoona, PA

Hard for me to believe I haven’t yet written about the Knickerbocker Tavern in Altoona—it’s one of my regular go-tos when I’m in the area.

As I passed through town on my way to the in-laws last week I had my cousin Carolyn for company (who is winning our personal Scrabble tournament, she would like you to know). Our mutual grandparents lived in Altoona so we drove past the home our grandfather built for his wife and children on 23rd Avenue in Calvert Hills. Then we headed down to Sixth Avenue and the Knickerbocker for lunch.

The place has a great little history tied to the Pennsylvania Railroad. According to “About Us” on the Knickerbocker’s website, the neighborhood—rowhouses and a hotel--was built up in the early 1900s for workers at the South Altoona railroad shops and those passing through for the railroad. (Click on the link for a very cool picture of the place in its infancy.) Like so many places, the hotel eventually became apartments. But the tavern has survived.

In warmer weather I’ve had meals in their little brick courtyard (or Kourtyard, as they call it) a number of times but it’s now March, and a very cold one at that (thanks a lot, Phil!). We found a booth in the bar and settled in. I ordered my standard Diet Pepsi (yes, there is a difference) and Carolyn scanned the beer list. Hoegaarden happened to be the day’s special ($3): no-brainer.

My inability to decide on menu choices must run in the family. Carolyn had the California BLT (says the menu: “Sure, you can make this at home, but ours tastes better. Bacon, lettuce and tomato [and avocado]. Served on Texas toast with mayo”) and a cup of chili (“We never quite understood why something hot would be called chili”) just because she wanted to try both. I ordered the special: roasted garlic creamy tomato soup (“Our family favorite. The award-winning tomato soup”—and Shirley Mitchell’s favorite) and grilled-cheese sandwich. The soup had large chunks of tomato, a nice texture change with the just-thick-enough soup. My sandwich, like so few restaurant grilled-cheese sandwiches, was not at all greasy; I loved it.

Again, this lunch makes me think about all the people out near the highway interchange, eating somewhere because it’s familiar and they know what they’ll get. I’d rather know that I’m going to have an experience (and most likely a far better meal). Like Bold in downtown Altoona, the Knickerbocker is a place off the highway, local, unique, and very much worth the trip.

Photo very obviously not taken by Mary Brenner.